Tuesday, September 18, 2012
Even as a form of art watch
As i wear this watch a smile comes to my face. I smirk knowing that this watch is not something that would have been designed today. This sport version of the iconic Grande Seconde watch by Jaquet Droz is a curious item that has a lot of merit but isn't something I ever saw coming from the brand. I first wrote about it back in 08 when it was still called the Jaquet Droz SUW (yes, "Sport Utility Watch"). Today, the name has been "clarified" a bit, and I am glad to see that it still has a happy home in the house of Jaquet Droz.
It is very difficult to describe what this watch is all about. It isn't quite what I would call a genuine sport watch, but it's certainly sport themed from a visual perspective. It embodies the popular figure eight switch layout of the Grande Seconde collection from the brand. While in times past not a building block of original Jaquet Droz history, the modern version of the brand used this attractive figure eight layout as an easy way of differentiating their pieces from other high-end timepiece makers. The Grande Seconde family has been very popular, and someone probably wanted to execute a sporty version of computer. If you think about it, there are very few high-end "dressy" watch brands that don't have an activity watch in the collection. Piaget has the Polo for example. Breguet has the Type XX, XXI, XXII as well as the Underwater. Blancpain has their dive and racing watches, and even Vacheron Constantin has the Overseas. Even Patek Philippe has the Nautilus and Aquanaut watches. Jaquet Droz probably felt that it needed something of its along those lines.
According to some people at Jaquet Droz, the Grande Seconde has always been a suspect piece for them. Some people like it, yet others don't. One issue some people have had is that it doesn't necessarily fit into the brand's current DNA. There is nothing wrong with that. Some of the best watches around don't necessarily fit in the aesthetic DNA set forth by their brand littermates.
I recall anytime I first come across the SW watch I was excited to try one on. Which i felt that the Grande Seconde switch design was elegant, and a youthful sport version of computer really captured my curiosity. As you can tell, the switch captures the figure eight switch layout perfectly. A smaller switch is defined at the very top which has hour and minute hands, while a more substantial switch for the additional seconds is defined below. While reading the time is not necessarily as easy as on watches that use the entire switch, Jaquet Droz designed the style to be as legible as possible -- as well as attractive. All of those other switch is used for decorative and design purposes. I really do feel that is a pretty cool thing.
The Grande Seconde SW case is a complex mishmash of design elements that do end up working well together in relative harmony. The design grows giving you because it of balance and awareness of detail. Though alone, components of the watch can appear highly industrial and relatively out of place. Skeletonized bezel claws on a Jaquet Droz? Not something I would have believed to work, but they do. On the arm you get an experiment in design, that doesn't fail to be comfortable or attractive. The SW is sexy, but extremely Western european in its lovely composure. It is artistic, while suggesting an activity theme. I guess that is the best way of describing it.
Over the years there have been a few versions of the Grande Seconde SW watch. That even includes a chronograph model. This particular version (ref. J029030440) is the newest one as of this review's writing. It is also definitely the. I will also mention that a metal diamond option is now available as well. The case is 45mm wide in steel (though there have been 18k gold versions of the SW as well). On this version, Jaquet Droz prefered a black ceramic bezel. It matches the shiny black lacquer switch and adds a certain amount of durability (via scratch resistance).
The switch is very strategic in its design. It mixes the simplicity of the Grande Seconde with the more industrial look of the SW case. There is a sort of screwed-down covered metal bar that expands from claw to claw, while an increasing and angled line lines the two overlapping knobs. This version of the SW watch opts for a blue trim on the hands and indicators, while the original SW watch used orange. May version with red trim. As i mentioned before, the switch is really about art. Tool watch purists will complain that too much space on the switch is being wasted, but I don't know why those people will be using Jaquet Droz to begin with. This is an feeling rich high-end brand that ocean a lace-ended sleeve at such silly thoughts.
Even as a form of art watch, Jaquet Droz put a lot of attention into comfort and use. For example there is a plastic section on the screw-down the queen's which helps to unscrew and operate it. The deployant hold locks securely and has a security bar to ensure your sizing doesn't undo-options itself. Plus, despite all the sharp aspects on this watch, undertake and don't they fit in a manner that caused me to pull the the watch on anything or scratch myself. I never take any of that for granted, as I've worn too many watches with terrible design issues. Honestly, most of those are lower -end pieces, but it does help my enthusiasm for high-end pieces that have a certain amount of thought and attention put into their design and production.
Inside the Grande Seconde SW watch is what Jaquet Droz calls their good quality 2663A-S automatic movement. They don't make it themselves, but it is make exclusively for them by Manufacture Blancpain. It was previously called Frederic Piguet, but lots of people in the Swatch Group still call it that. Frederic Piguet is like the high-end more exclusive ETA. The movement is a power reserve of 68 hours and is visible through the backside caseback window. It has an attractive level of decoration fitting a wrist watch as of this price. The automatic rotor is further done in 18k white gold.
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